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Winding the mainspring

Calibre AH-01  ·  Skeleton tourbillon  ·  Genève

Two hundred andeleven parts.One heartbeat.

Every component of the AH-01 is cut, bevelled and polished by hand in our atelier on the Rue des Granges. Scroll, and we will take it apart for you.

Case
40 mm, 18k 5N rose gold
Reserve
72 hours
Frequency
28,800 vph

Fig. I  —  The case, opened

Remove the gold, and what is left is a machine.

AH-01 is a hand-wound skeleton tourbillon: 211 parts and 31 jewels, and not one of them hidden behind a dial. Keep scrolling and we will take it apart, layer by layer, in the order it was put together.

Fig. II  —  Exploded along the axis

Twelve layers. 6.1 millimetres.

Sapphire, hands, chapter ring, bridges, winding works, going train, tourbillon, barrel, mainplate, case. Every wheel here is turning at its true ratio — and the hands are showing your time.

  • 32.4 mm calibre
  • 31 jewels
  • 211 parts

Fig. III  —  Energy

Hold the crown. Feel the ratchet.

Forty-two centimetres of mainspring, coiled in a toothed drum. Each turn of the crown winds it tighter around the arbor while the click stops it slipping back. Thirty turns buy three days.

Press and hold the crown, or the gauge

Fig. IV  —  Transmission

Four wheels turn days into seconds.

The barrel turns once every eight hours. The centre wheel turns once an hour and carries the minute hand. The third wheel steps it up again, until the tourbillon cage turns exactly once a minute.

  • 96 : 12 barrel
  • 80 : 10 centre
  • 75 : 10 third

Fig. V  —  Regulation  ·  shown at ⅒ speed

Eight times a second, it lets go.

The pallet fork unlocks the escape wheel by half a tooth and returns a small push to the balance. The balance swings almost three quarters of a turn each way; its hairspring, thinner than a human hair, keeps the beat. The whole escapement rides in a cage that turns once a minute, averaging out gravity.

  • 4 Hz
  • 290° amplitude
  • 0.29 g cage

Finishing

What no one will see, we polish anyway.

3hours per movement

Côtes de Genève

Waves drawn across every bridge with a boxwood wheel, one pass per stripe, aligned from bridge to bridge as if they had been cut from a single plate of metal.

4,000circles on one mainplate

Perlage

Overlapping circles grained into the mainplate one at a time with a spinning peg. They scatter the light — and catch the dust that would otherwise find its way to the pivots.

64inward angles, by hand

Anglage

Every edge filed to forty-five degrees and polished with gentian wood until it throws a single line of light. An inward angle cannot be made by a machine. AH-01 has sixty-four.

Reassembled

Assembled twice. Once to test, once to keep.

Each AH-01 is fully assembled, regulated in six positions for three weeks, then taken down again for its final finishing — and put together for the last time by the same pair of hands.

The collection

Three references. One calibre.

Ref. AH-01 · P

Glacier

950 platinum, rhodium-plated bridges, midnight-blue alligator.

CHF 64,000

Ref. AH-01 · R

Rose

18k 5N rose gold, anthracite bridges, hand-stitched brown alligator.

CHF 48,000

Ref. AH-01 · N  ·  12 pieces

Nuit

Black DLC titanium over rose-gold wheels, matte black calfskin.

CHF 56,000

Atelier  ·  Rue des Granges, Genève

Six watchmakers. Thirty-eight watches a year.

We could make more. We would rather each watch be made by one person, from the first file stroke to the last screw — and signed under the balance bridge, where only another watchmaker will ever read it.

6
watchmakers at the bench
38
watches a year
11
months for each one
420
hours of hand finishing

At the bench  —  Élise Aurel, founder · Jonas Favre · Aiko Tanabe · Matteo Rinaldi · Clara Vuille · Samuel Dufour

Appointments  ·  2027 allocation opens in March

Your watch begins with a conversation.

Visits are by appointment at the atelier, Tuesday to Friday. Tell us a little about yourself and the watch you imagine; we answer every letter within two days.